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  Thread Last Poster Posts Pages Last Post
23 series from Rags to richesMichel Cousineau03-10-07  04:14 pm
24 a Ambulance - A real challenge...Harry Roberts10 11-12-06  06:57 pm
24 c Town Sedan.Keith Wreyford23 12-06-05  05:38 pm
25 e Restoring this tipping wagonBaz Carter05-28-07  02:51 pm
25 series Commercial Motor vehiclesdave boreham28 06-01-06  02:26 pm
25 d 2CV FourgonnetteJacques Hammel03-09-06  10:42 am
29 c Pre war Double Decker BusMichel Cousineau01-18-06  01:59 pm
30 j Austin LorryJan Werner11-27-05  08:47 am
36 e & 36 f windscreensKeith Wreyford02-18-07  01:03 am
36 e/f British SalmsonKeith Wreyford08-06-07  11:26 pm
37 c Signal RiderChris Clemons08-25-06  11:22 pm
39 a Packard Super 8 tourerLuis Ramon Rossi10-10-08  11:55 pm
39 e Some ChryslersRobert Smith01-01-07  10:14 pm
40 a - 158 RileyCam Bailey10-30-05  10:02 pm
40 f - 154 - Hillman MinxHarry Roberts11-17-06  11:17 am
101 Thunderbird 2.al smith03-02-07  08:27 pm
107 stripey picturesMichel Cousineau04-06-06  10:06 pm
128 Mercedes 600.Luis Ramon Rossi10 08-10-08  02:14 am
160 Mercedes Benz 250 SE.Luis Ramon Rossi08-10-08  02:11 am
162 - 18 pounder quick firing field unit box insertneil baker08-05-06  01:40 am
166 Restoring a Sunbeam RapierClare Lisa Thomas20 06-18-07  03:18 pm
170 Lincoln Continental.Luis Ramon Rossi10 08-10-08  02:05 am
191 Dodge Royal Sedan.Jacques Dujardin03-14-07  11:21 pm
214 hillman imp decalsAl Keeling04-01-06  05:46 pm
351 Interceptor (stage1)philip box19 10-19-04  03:55 pm
410 Bedford CF vanJacques Dujardin03-15-07  08:20 am
465 'Capstan' Morris 10 cwt Van (Paint colour)Jos Hoes12-02-06  04:48 pm
555 - Fire engine with extending ladder.Luis Ramon Rossi06-23-08  10:06 pm
571 Coles Mobile CraneLuis Ramon Rossi08-06-08  11:42 pm
957 fire service gift set box inserts neil baker12-21-06  09:52 pm
970 Jones fleetmasterPaul Owen11-08-06  07:30 pm
986 Antar with PropellerJacques Dujardin13 03-24-06  01:04 am
AxelsJacques Hammel40 07-04-09  05:00 pm
Base plates buy - sale - swap.George Still15 09-03-05  05:21 pm
Broken PartsAdministrator09-02-12  03:24 pm
Casting repairsdave boreham20 10-13-06  11:52 am
Code 3 also some time called hybridMichel Cousineau52 08-04-07  05:42 pm
Decals.
See Transfers.
 06-10-14  09:56 am
Dinky sets without boxes- Opinions sought.Chris Knight08-03-05  05:48 am
Dinky Tyre ChartCam Bailey04-02-06  04:27 am
Eveready batteryMichel Cousineau01-13-07  09:15 pm
Finding a picture reference of original modelsIan Law14 08-16-06  10:46 am
Glass cleaningBob Barnes15 04-03-06  08:51 pm
Heresy - a Corgi tractor - restoration exampleChris Knight05-03-06  09:39 am
Looking for repro box for the corgi 107 tin fin 1st issue batboatdai dixon05-24-07  11:04 am
Original Boxes- CleaningJan Werner09-14-06  05:59 pm
PaintWim van den Berg15 07-12-10  12:21 am
Painting Dinky Toys with an airgun.Ronald Krauch12-01-06  10:17 am
Parts
See Spare parts.
 06-10-14  09:56 am
Phantom II f4 landing gearandrew hawkins08-22-06  10:13 pm
Pre-war hubsAlan Hurt12-02-06  09:14 pm
Project Number 1 "The Hillman Minx"...Pierre Ooms68 06-17-06  07:03 am
Pullmore queryPeter Golden01-27-07  04:15 pm
Radiators / grillPeter Golden04-08-07  11:21 am
RepaintingGary Peach21 03-18-07  10:53 am
Restored Dinky Toys.Marc Sysmans81 01-26-14  09:06 pm
Restoring Dinky ToysPierre Ooms25 11-12-06  03:52 pm
Restoring Dinky'sJacques Dujardin366 53 06-28-10  10:44 am
Rivet HeadsJacques Dujardin20 02-07-11  08:23 am
RivetsBob Barnes10-08-09  11:46 pm
Spare partsBob Barnes35 01-19-11  07:12 pm
Spray Can'sSecember Dean02-07-07  06:24 pm
Steve Fowlers Model suppliesPaul Owen08-05-06  04:38 pm
Transfers / decals.John Parker84 01-22-08  10:33 pm
Tyre basic question!Hector Luis Spinelli15 02-01-10  11:46 pm
Wannabe restorerChris Knight02-16-05  09:40 am
Wheel hubsChris Knight02-13-06  10:20 am
White Metal Casting at "Home"Wim van den Berg31 06-22-05  05:14 am
A RETURN TO THE FOLDKeith Rundle06-23-09  05:29 pm
Some of my restosAdministrator10-21-09  04:14 pm
29b Streamlined busWolter Bekkema11-28-09  12:57 pm
131 Cadillac Administrator12-02-09  11:18 am
Albion 6-wheeled flatbedWim van den Berg06-28-10  02:35 am
French Dinky 571 Saviem horseboxWim van den Berg01-19-11  07:32 pm
14Z TRIPORTERBruce Allsopp11-13-13  10:28 am
RECENT RESTORATIONSJacques Dujardin11-13-13  04:57 pm
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Pete Bunney (Peteb61)

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Posted on Thursday, April 15, 2004 - 07:56 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)

Hello Gents,

I'm new to this game in fact I'm about to start my first restorations. I was wondering if anyone out there could answer a couple of questions. I have this Forder 139a, with green green wheels, green body and cream roof. As you can see it has seen better days. I am right in saying these are not original colours and if so what are the correct colours.

Thanks for any help.

Pete

(Message edited by dinkycollect on November 29, 2005)
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Jacques Dujardin (Dinkycollect)


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Posted on Tuesday, November 29, 2005 - 10:09 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)



Resized picture from Pete Bunney.
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Douglas Martine (Doug_martine)

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Posted on Tuesday, April 20, 2004 - 11:42 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)

I have restored several of these fordor fords. Rather easy to do, often base and rivots left alone. looks like a good casting with hood ornament still on grill. orig color appears green with matching wheels. the rear tires can be replaced with base intact a couple of ways.
good luck
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Chris Knight (Gizmouk)

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Posted on Monday, April 26, 2004 - 09:57 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)

You may like to consider the US Army version - matt green with stars on bonnet & doors - very easy and a rare-ish version... stars transfers can be got from many sources
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Kev

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Posted on Saturday, September 04, 2004 - 05:30 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)

Hi, reading articles on stripping paint and using caustic soda, just a query, is it a bad thing to use paint strippers like nitro mors? Thankyou
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Teddy Maricq (Teddy111)

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Posted on Friday, October 15, 2004 - 07:10 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)

A restored Ford Fordor...

picture
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Peter Beljaards

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Posted on Wednesday, January 05, 2005 - 09:19 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)

Does Somebody knows how to take apart a Dinky 290 double decker bus?
The most Dinky Toys have rivits you can drill out but this bus has no rivits.
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Al Keeling (Launcelot)

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Posted on Wednesday, January 05, 2005 - 11:34 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)

What i did was carefully tap the flat end of a screwdriver between the base behind the rear wheelarch and that sturdy upright on the upper piece that has the back lug at the bottom. With only a light levering, the back lug popped out of the rebate followed quickly by the lugs at the front.

Since this was a full repaint rescue job, the whole casting (minus wheels) had been previously bubbling in caustic soda, so perhaps the abscence of paint made the separation easier.
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Peter Beljaards

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Posted on Thursday, January 06, 2005 - 12:05 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)

Hi,

Thank you,that worked well

http://home.zonnet.nl/lsabella/
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Chris Knight (Gizmouk)

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Posted on Friday, January 07, 2005 - 01:18 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)

Niromors works very well - just rather messy. Caustic soda is cheaper and a lot more dangerous ! Don't breathe the fumes.
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Malcolm H Brice (Sunbeam)

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Posted on Monday, February 21, 2005 - 05:40 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)

Wickes sell a version of a Nitromors type of paint stripper which they call simply Paint and Varnish Stripper. It is a gel which is water washable. It works well, if messily but, with care, will take off overpaint without immediately taking off the original dinky paint. However, a second application will take off all paint or render it soft enough to be taken off with a small scraper or, my favourite weapon, a rifler file. I will try to put on the message boards an example, such as the 190 caravan I have just restored.
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Malcolm H Brice (Sunbeam)

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Posted on Monday, February 21, 2005 - 06:06 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)

Hi,

Herewith, hopefully, the before and after effects of using paint stripper, taking the red, dark blue and yellow off and repainting in the correct colours, although I've added the details of the red rear triangles and the top windows. Looks neater than the photos in reality.

(Message edited by dinkycollect on November 29, 2005)
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Jacques Dujardin (Dinkycollect)


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Posted on Tuesday, November 29, 2005 - 10:22 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)







Resized pictures from Malcom H. Brice.
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Peter Beljaards

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Posted on Thursday, February 24, 2005 - 01:05 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)

You probably did not use any primer, the paint looks not good at the edges.
The metal shines trough the paint.
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Les Pickstock (Tailstock)

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Posted on Thursday, February 24, 2005 - 01:14 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)

I've stripped several Dinky of various ages recently and I've yet to find any trace of primer on the originals.
Dinky seem to have painted straight onto the metal.
The problem of edges showing through can be addressed by using several thin paint coats and not a couple of thick ones.
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Malcolm H Brice (Sunbeam)

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Posted on Thursday, February 24, 2005 - 04:03 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)

Hi Peter and Les,

Thanks for your comments. I did in fact use Humbrol grey primer and the model looks much better than in the photo. The effect of the flash and the zooming in has made the edges, for example, much more ragged than they actually look. I shall try a different photo procedure. I agree that the original models did not seem to have been primed. I recently reconditioned the 39a Packard below and it had brown overspray inside it but no primer. I think as you suggest, Les, the best coverage then, and now, is possibly obtained by more than one coat of thin spraying/painting.

39a Packard

(Message edited by dinkycollect on November 29, 2005)
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Launcelot

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Posted on Thursday, February 24, 2005 - 05:52 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)

Dinky did not use primer paints in production. The castings were chemically treated to slightly roughen the surface as a key for the enamel - which was then baked dry.
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Peter

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Posted on Sunday, March 06, 2005 - 02:00 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)

Hi,

I know dinky did not use primer, but we also don't paint like the dinky factory.
The way we spray our paint, you have to use primer.
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joseph busuttil (Dinkydoodles)

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Posted on Tuesday, May 17, 2005 - 02:24 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)

help!!
could anyone help me with replacing the rivets after a restore? thanks for any information...lynx
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Cam Bailey (Unimedic2)

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Posted on Tuesday, May 17, 2005 - 01:57 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)

Hi Joseph:

there are a few methods in use in the club today. Some use the smaller pop rivets and use the nail part as the axle. They take the rivet apart before use though and drill the toy out to glue the rivet head in place. I use galvanized siding nails with the round head. I chuck them in my drill press and turn them down with a file until they look the right size. I then drill and file a small indent in the head. They are then ready to be cut off and glued in place in the toy. See the pictures below. I hope this helps.

Cam




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Chris Knight (Gizmouk)

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Posted on Wednesday, June 01, 2005 - 10:11 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)

I like the nails Cam - what's a 'siding' nail though ???
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Cam Bailey (Unimedic2)

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Posted on Thursday, June 02, 2005 - 02:20 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)

Hi Chris:

A siding nail is a galvanized nail 2 inches long with a half rounded head. We use them to put the cedar siding on our cool west coast Canadian homes here. They are very tough to nail due to the rounded head as the hammer keeps slipping off and denting the siding. A hammer with a patterned head is needed to drive them properly. The idea, I gather, is they create a nice dimple in the siding that will countersink itself into the siding and won't gather moisture or pull back out. Anyway I don't use them for that, but they work wonderfully for filing down and holding the base plates on.

Cam
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Chris Knight (Gizmouk)

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Posted on Thursday, June 02, 2005 - 09:19 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)

Thanks Cam - I'd better go shopping ! Now where do they sell Cedar and nails in Yorkshire????

Chris
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Cam Bailey (Unimedic2)

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Posted on Thursday, June 02, 2005 - 01:39 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)

Well I guess you will just have to come here for them. I would be most glad to shepherd you about the stores in town. The beer is cold, the coffee hot, and the spare room is always ready. I look forward to seeing you on the doorstep.

Cam
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Chris Knight (Gizmouk)

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Posted on Sunday, June 05, 2005 - 08:51 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)

Thanks Cam - you never know !

I just realised I just sold you a Mini on ebay....

Chris
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Cam Bailey (Unimedic2)

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Posted on Sunday, June 05, 2005 - 05:33 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)

Geez Chris:

You should deliver it then!

Cam
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Chris Knight (Gizmouk)

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Posted on Monday, September 26, 2005 - 01:46 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)

OOOOOH !!!!!
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Gary Peach (Gary_peach)

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Posted on Wednesday, November 30, 2005 - 10:38 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)

Can anyone help?

I have a number of French Dinky with the metal wheels, usual dust rust. Is there anything that I can use to remove this. I dont want to restore the cars, I like the played with look, I would just like to clean the wheels while in place. Some have original tyres that are round and sound but not removable.

If any one can help

Thanks.

Gary
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Chris Knight (Gizmouk)

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Posted on Wednesday, November 30, 2005 - 07:55 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)

Back to authentic painting - if we want to paint like the Dinky factory did we will have to wear curlers in our hair, hairnets and smoke 50 fags a day while gossiping about our neighbours, take little notice of what we're doing, have no pride in our work and swear a lot with Liverpool accents while doing it. All the while using no safety equipment and lead based paint. So that should be easy then.
Surely it's more important to achieve a decent finish than to uselessly try to ape procedures that we don't even know much about and with paint of completely different composition. We're producing restorations NOT copied after all.
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Secember Dean (Dinkydublo)

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Posted on Friday, June 09, 2006 - 07:20 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)

Hello,

I dont really know where to post this,but i was hoping somebody could help me out with this,i bought a big lot of whitemetal military models,they are real small and have GHQ on the bottom of them.Anyhelp is welcome

small

small1
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Gary Peach (Gary_peach)

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Posted on Friday, June 09, 2006 - 11:27 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)

Hi Secember

Just did a search on Google for GCH White metal. Web page for company www.ghqmodels.com going since the 1960s.

Gary
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Les Pickstock (Tailstock)

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Posted on Saturday, June 10, 2006 - 12:10 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)

GHQ were about the best of the makers for these wargame pieces to a scale of 1/285th.
Looking at the top picture the vehicles are from left to right.
A Panzerjager Nashorn SdKfz. 164 - A Self propelled gun using the infamous 88mm.
A Volkswagen "Kubelwagen" The German equivilent of the Jeep. Used the same drive train and engine as the "Beetle".
2 Willys Jeeps - enough said.
An SdKfz 250 halftrack - Little brother of the Hanomag SdKfz 251 halftrack (produceds by Dinky as their "Tank Destroyer")
I think the last is an American 105mm Howitzer but I could be wrong about that - I think the barrel is missing.

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David Lowe (Venkman61)

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Posted on Wednesday, July 19, 2006 - 06:48 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)

Hi I've been hovering around for a while now and reading up on restorations etc and have finally bought an Airbrush can somebody please tell em what the paint to thinner ratio should be?
And is about 4" the optimum dist for spraying?
I understand that primer has to be used as the original paints weren't acrylic and therefore not water based but will ordinary primer work or do you really need etch primer?
Sorry for all the questions but I don't want to set off on the wrong foot and cock everything up.
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Wim van den Berg (Dr_dinky)


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Posted on Wednesday, July 19, 2006 - 07:15 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)

David, that is where this site is all about. I use any Testors or Humbrol paints and usually I thin half and half.
Use laquer thinner.
$' sounds about right. The manual that comes with your spraygun has probably more info on that too. Just try out on some insignificant projects. Nice thing with diecast is you can always wash it off and start over. I use spaycan primer lightly. Feel free to email me too .
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Ronald Krauch (Boumpa)

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Posted on Thursday, August 17, 2006 - 01:52 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)

Hello All,
Just bought Dinky 353 Shado 2, on a boot sale, Rocket present, and roof mechanism still working,black tracks present, but the launching system is broken and some parts missing,found that model supplies and MK models have replacement rocket and window unit and transfers. has someone idea were to find launching system? Also can someone give me the humbrol or revell reference for the base plate?

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Keith Rundle (Keith)

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Posted on Thursday, August 17, 2006 - 03:23 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)

Authentic painting re-visited.
I've just, belatedly, read Chris Knight's post of 30 Nov 05, best laugh I've had all week!

Yet, many grains of truth. I can't give a quoted ref without formal permission, but a few years ago read an excerpt of a study of Binns Rd, made many years before, a phrase such as (from my memory not verbatim) '...management have lost control...' seems to sum up the last few years, giving me the impression of a site run on tramlines with heads deep in sand (wot rubbish metaphors).

Perhaps the 'Titanic' of the toy industry? Sailing blithely on at full speed, despite falling sales & market changes, while unsold stock piled up around them. Is that too part of the fascination for Dinky & things Meccano?

Putting socio/economic history aside (well aside to avoid offence), however much we may love the products that emerged, I agree that we can never reproduce them. We have (in the main)original castings, baseplates, hubs & axles, plus a plethora of info, not least this club. So what's a new paint job, tyres & transfers? It's a 'restoration'.

I suggest we are better off than the 12" to the foot preserved steam lines. They have to chop & change major parts, on locomotives that rarely had their original bits when retired. Now come welded fireboxes & cylinder repairs, new wheels, complete new major fabrications, new paint material, the list goes on. Lately even locos that no longer exist are in the course of recreation. All, new, compilations of bits or whatever wil be loved by those who own them & enjoyed by those who see them.

So, to get back (at last I hear a cry!) to Chris's final point, the importance is a decent finish & a good restoration as faithful as poss. Let's count our blessings at how much survives still in need of making good.

And, if I get one more speck of dust or minute hair on an otherwise good job (in as clean a work area as I can achieve) I'll crack up!

Yours in spray-painted frustration, Keith II (Pixy)
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LUIS RAMON ROSSI (Drrossi)


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Posted on Tuesday, October 03, 2006 - 12:23 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)

Hi All:

Somebody know about a Mercedes Benz 600 # 128 Without Roof (Cabrio).

Regards

Dr.Luis Rossi
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Secember Dean (Dinkydublo)

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Posted on Sunday, December 17, 2006 - 04:16 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)

Hello,

Does boite a jouets have a website?
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Jacques Dujardin (Dinkycollect)


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Posted on Sunday, December 17, 2006 - 06:13 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)

No he cant be bothered.
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neil baker (Siennaruby)

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Posted on Wednesday, December 20, 2006 - 11:01 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)

Hi there I would like to know if anyone can help me, I have got hold of some 24 series cars that I found in a swap meet in sydney and they are fatigued 1x town sedan and 1x vogue saloon. The vogue saloon is quite interesting as i think it was pink but the paint has faded.

I wish to know if I should try to stabilize them with something. or just leave them be.

Any other handy hints would be helpful.

Thanks Neil.
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Wolter Bekkema (Wolter)
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Posted on Monday, April 27, 2009 - 12:59 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)

Hello everybody,

I am restoring this # 151a Medium Tank and I try to come as close as possible but I do not know how much the length of the aerial might be.
Is there anybody out there who can tell me the -EXACT- length of this little piece?
I’d like to know how much it is protruding from its base on the turret or how much the length is including its base.

Tanx – Wolter.

PS: do the light tank and medium tank have the same length of aerial?

151a Medium Tank

151a Medium Tank

151a Medium Tank
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Jan Werner (Janwerner)
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Posted on Monday, April 27, 2009 - 07:39 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)

Hi Wolter,

Whatever the exact size and length of the bent wire underneath, the antenna sticks out exactly 14 mm above the tiny round base's top. In fact, the Light Tank's antenna has the same length, but, lacking the little base, it sticks out 15 mm above the top of its little extension behind the turret top.
A quick snapshot as a demonstration:





Kind regards, met vriendelijke groet, Jan Werner
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Wolter Bekkema (Wolter)
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Posted on Tuesday, April 28, 2009 - 11:10 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)

Hallo Jan,

Hartelijk dank voor je snelle respons.

Many "tanks" for your swift response

MvrGr. Kind Regards - Wolter
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Wolter Bekkema (Wolter)
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Posted on Saturday, May 30, 2009 - 07:58 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)

Hi Folks,

I often see Dinky Toys on various sites, p.e. like eBay, offered as “pre war”.
Mostly at a closer look one can see ridged hubs and thick (2mm) axles.
As far as I know ridged hubs and thick axles were introduced post war.
But I am not sure about that, is there anyone out there who can tell me more about this?



Tanx and best regards – Wolter.
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Peter Golden (Goldenp)
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Posted on Saturday, May 30, 2009 - 04:58 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)

Hi Wolter

Thick axles 5/64 inch were introduced post war, and thin axles 1/16 inch were used pre-war. The literature states there are no exceptions to this rule. I don't think this applies to smaller items like the 35 series cars. If I look at a pre-war and a post war 35 series vehicle they seem to both have axles that are thin.

When production resumed in 1945/6 Dinky still used the rounded smooth hubs as in pre-war vehicles. These changed either in late 1946 or early 1947 to the ridged version which seems to have a central hub cap.

Sellers advertising items with thick axles and especially those with ridged hubs as pre-war are making an error, usually I expect from ignorance rather than deliberate misrepresentation.
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Jan Werner (Janwerner)
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Posted on Saturday, May 30, 2009 - 07:25 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)

Hi Wolter, the thicker axles were introduced in the design drawings in spring 1945. So thin axles may be considered to be pre-1945 and thick axles post-war.
Ridged hubs, however, were introduced about a year later, in the course of 1946. You will see early Lagondas (38c) or Jeeps (153a, April 1946) with smooth hubs, but you will never see a regular Jaguar Sports Car (38f) or Armstrong Siddeley Coupe (38e, end of 1947) with smooth hubs.

Kind regards, Jan Werner
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Wolter Bekkema (Wolter)
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Posted on Sunday, May 31, 2009 - 03:15 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)

Hi Peter and Jan,

Tanx for your expertise.
I appreciate it.

Best Regards - Wolter.
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Jan Werner (Janwerner)
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Posted on Sunday, May 31, 2009 - 01:07 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)

Oops, of course I meant 'end of 1946' as the period of introduction, regarding the 38d and 38f.

Kind regards, Jan Werner
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Nicholas Hamilton-Peters (Nicholas)
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Posted on Wednesday, September 07, 2011 - 08:21 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)

I thought members might be interested in some of my restorations, mainly Fodens shown here, but some cars as well. More planned for the winter period.
image/bmpSome of the Fodens etc I have restored.
Dinky Fodens 6.BMP (3255.0 k)
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Administrator (Admin)
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Post Number: 345
Registered: 10-2002

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Posted on Wednesday, September 07, 2011 - 09:03 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)

Ah!
That's a fantastic show of restorations Nicholas.
( Your photograph here in jpeg format.)
Kindest regards
Nigel
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Gaetano Brucculeri (Brucculeri)
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Posted on Monday, August 06, 2012 - 10:23 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)

Hello everyone!

I have come across a 29b Dinky streamlined bus in need of restoration. The axles are what concern me for removal! They are fitted differently from any other Dinky I have restored. Would any of you knowledgeable restorers be kind enough to share your best practice in removing and replacing these? Anything would be appreciated as I am unfortunately a purist and want to be absolutely correct! Thank you in advance!
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Keith Wreyford (Keith_w)
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Post Number: 447
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Posted on Tuesday, August 07, 2012 - 10:03 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)

Hi Gaetano

If you look above you will find a headlining "Axels" and within that thread you will find "Axel Crimping" as you will see there was a great deal of discussion at the time, but I do not think there is the definitive answer, but it may help you with what you are looking for, what the factory could do, and what we can do as armatures are somewhat limited.

Best of luck
Keith
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Administrator (Admin)
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Post Number: 347
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Posted on Tuesday, August 07, 2012 - 06:58 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)

Dear Gaetano,

Welcome Click the link HERE to see more on axle and crimping.

Regards
Admin
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Jacques Dujardin (Dinkycollect)
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Post Number: 1015
Registered: 11-2003


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Posted on Tuesday, August 07, 2012 - 01:45 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)

Welcome to the club Gaetano.

We have had this discussion before but as far as I remember, we did not come to a conclusion as to how to crimp the axles on the 29b bus, the 24 c Loudspeaker van and similar fittings. An other member may remember where this discussion is.
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Jan Werner (Janwerner)
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Post Number: 1303
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Posted on Tuesday, August 07, 2012 - 10:52 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)

Hello Gaetano, welcome to this forum. My first idea on your question was: it is really necessary to remove the axles for restoration? Perhaps one should consider if 'violating' the model could be avoided by using alternative methods. Anyway, the inside of the casting doesn't need a paint layer at all, it is always bare metal. If tyres have to be replaced they can simply have a small cut with a sharp knife and glued together again when they have passed the axle and are fitted back around the hub (I do so myself if for example a Studebaker Tanker 30p needs replacement tyres for the rear wheel(s)). In my opinion it is less harmful to manipulate a replacement tyre than manipulating the fundamental parts of a diecast model.
Kind regards, Jan
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Gaetano Brucculeri (Brucculeri)
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Username: Brucculeri

Post Number: 2
Registered: 07-2012

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Posted on Monday, August 20, 2012 - 03:27 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)

Thank you everyone for your input. I so appreciate the help! My greatest concern in this regard is stripping the paint! I am so used to the traditional method ( caustic soda submersion) that I inquire about the axle removal! I agree with Jan that the best case scenario is to not disturb the factory integrity if at all possible! However, should I take this route, what are the best practices for stripping this model with the axles and tires intact? ( it would pain me to cut of or destroy the original rubber)
I would again appreciate anything you may offer!
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Malcolm H Brice (Sunbeam)
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Post Number: 39
Registered: 01-2010

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Posted on Monday, August 20, 2012 - 09:13 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)

Hi Gaetano,

I have always used paint stripper for this purpose, applied with a small paint brush, and have followed it with the careful application of a small rifler file, lightly used to get off any last traces. To protect the tyres, I suggest covering them with masking tape. as this has worked for me in the past. I wish you well with your project.
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Jan Werner (Janwerner)
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Post Number: 1306
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Posted on Monday, August 20, 2012 - 08:52 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)

A paint stripper can be used locally, without submersion. You might take off the tyres, 'park' them in the middle of the axle and tape them in there, for protection against stripper and the new paint spray. The axle won't be affected by the paint stripper. If you polish it in advance, it will come out shiny afterwards, when possible paint spill has been removed.
This is MY opinion and procedure in such a case. Other suggestions may work out better!
Kind regards, Jan
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Marc Sysmans (Msysmans)
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Username: Msysmans

Post Number: 5
Registered: 01-2014

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Posted on Monday, March 31, 2014 - 06:06 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)

Hi all,

Here's my restoration of a Fiat 600D and a Ford Anglia 155.
The boxes are also self-made...
FIAT 600D (520)
520-1
520-2
FORD ANGLIA (155)
155-1
155-2

www.dinky-toys.be

Regards
Marc

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